05 Dec 2018

What To Eat In Westchester This Winter

Bouillabaisse at Eastchester Fish Gourmet

What To Eat In Westchester This Winter

by Keenan Steiner

As we prepare for the colder months, Westchester’s best chefs are changing over their menus to
reflect the season—with winter vegetables, meat from locally-raised game, and meals that offer
comfort and sustenance. We chatted with the chefs and restaurateurs at some of the region’s best
restaurants to find out what they’re excited about serving. From new creations to classic Old
World recipes, here’s what to order at seven great Westchester restaurants this winter:

L’inzio
698 Saw Mill River Road, Ardsley
This inventive Italian-inspired restaurant, run by chefs-owners Scott and Heather Fratangelo, will
see refreshing flavors this winter. Scott’s menu includes a roasted Long Island duck breast
topped with a sweet-and-sour peperonata (made with local Italian frying peppers) and local
broccoli rabe; a market fish with refreshing flavors all around it, including crispy winter squash
hash with sweet soppressata, a savory butternut squash puree, and the sweet acidity of a curry
apple mostarda (like a chutney); and a delicata squash appetizer, featuring the yellow center of
the squash inside the green outer ring, flat on the plate with the restaurant’s smoked ricotta and
good honey from upstate. For dessert, go for Heather’s baked caramel apple with an almond-and-
cranberry granola and homemade semifreddo.

 

Purdy’s Farmer & the Fish
100 Titicus Road, North Salem
The menu at this true farm-to-table restaurant (there’s a farm with multiple greenhouses
attached) is “constantly changing from what we’re pulling from the farm and our cellar,” said
chef and co-owner Michael Kaphan. That means you can not only look forward to various fresh
seafood and meat options, but also a bounty of staples pulled from their root cellar and
greenhouse. This winter, expect to see sunchokes, kolrabi, carrots, kale, and more, all fresh from
the ground. Want to know what’s coming from their farm? It’s actually listed on the top of your
menu.

Captain Lawrence Brewing Comany
444 Saw Mill River Road, Elmsford
At Westchester’s award-winning brewery, it’s about much more than beer. This winter, look
forward to a new menu with a changed focus—away from Asian flavors and towards elevated,
American bar food (plus lots of ingredients from the Hudson Valley). Two menu favorites
remain: The beloved crispy chicken sandwich (drink it with the Hop Commander IPA) and the
sweet, citrus-flavored wings (pair it with the Effortless Grapefruit IPA). A preview of the new
menu also includes these gems: a muffaletta sandwich, pork belly rillette, beer pickles, and
house-made pretzel sticks with beer cheese.

Gnocchi with oxtail ragu at Maria

Saltaire

55 Abendroth Avenue, Port Chester
At this raw-bar-forward restaurant with great happy hours (and wine deal Wednesdays), you’re
going to want the seafood Bolognese (a classic Bolognese but with seafood sausage) over
homemade linguine as well as their pasta carbonara made with Maryland lump blue crab, the
general manager Roy Santos said. For those wanting to really live it up, Santos says recommends
ordering prized Alaskan King Crab (made famous by the TV show “Deadliest Catch”). It’s
pricey at about $65 per pound, but for Santos’ money, it’s worth it. Once he tried it, “I found out
what real crab tastes like. I feel like I’ve been fooled all my life,” he said.

273 Kitchen
273 Halstead Avenue, Harrison
Start with the venison carpaccio at this small Mediterranean restaurant that’s all about letting the
ingredients speak for themselves without a ton of dress-up. This winter, chef-owner Constantine
Kalandranis recommends the shellfish paella with orzo; the Hudson Valley duck breast
surrounded by apples, parsnips, and brussels; a “curing” duck-bone broth, and a pasta featuring
braised duck (can you tell they use every part of that duck?). The best part is you get a four-
course meal for $49. Even better: Kalandranis is offering caviar at an affordable (for caviar) $35
per once.

Eastchester Fish Gourmet
837 Post Road, Scarsdale
You might want to arrive early in the evening for a chance at ordering the rare and surprising
types of fish the Eastchester Fish team often procures. Plus, the seafood-focused menu will get
some winter additions: Nantucket bay scallops, bouillabaisse with mussels, clams, scallops and
shrimp, duck breast and duck leg confit, and a braised short rib. More good news: By January,
Go Fish, their take-out lunch spot, should be open next door.

Braised lamb shank with carrots at Maria

Maria
11 Huguenot Street, New Rochelle
The winter menu plans of Giovani Cucullo, who runs this exciting, new Italian restaurant, are
enticing. Apart from cacciucco (a Tuscan seafood stew), he’ll have an appetizer version of
cassoulet that he calls “decadent.” There will be braised meats, of course, including: a lamb
shank with carrots and veal osso buco on occasion. Any braised meats are going to show up
elsewhere: in a carrot dish topped with lamb sauce and as a pasta filling. Another pasta to get
excited about is his gnocchi with oxtail ragu.

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